single pitch instructor (SPI) course

 The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program

The SPI Program is a three day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) SPI Assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment or take any higher level AMGA Program to re-gain the SPI certification.

* San Juan Expeditions offers American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) training and certification programs. The AMGA provides training and the only nationally and internationally recognized certifications in the United States for Climbing Instructors and Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Guides. The AMGA is the sole representative in the US for the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) and Climbing Instructor Certifications (endorsed by the UIAA). The AMGA is recognized worldwide as the highest American standard of training and certification for instructors and guides. AMGA certification is the standard in the United States. 

What do you get from an SPi Course and Assessment?

• The SPI Course significantly improves the instructor’s skill sets and integrates into the next level of training, which includes the AMGA Rock Guide Course and the Multi-Pitch Instructor certification.

• The SPI Course is a 27-hour training course that normally runs as three consecutive nine-hour days or day classes with evening sessions.
• The SPI Assessment is a two day (16 hour) evaluation of your proficiency with the SPI material   

• Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.
• After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to regain the SPI certification.
• Taking any higher level AMGA Course also recertifies the SPI certification for another three years.

SPI Course Prerequisites

• You must be a Professional Member of the AMGA.
• You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
• You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
• You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
• You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
• You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).
• You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

 The above prerequisites are absolute minimums for the SPI Course. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to make best use of the training.

SPI Exam Prerequisites

• You are a current member of the AMGA.
• You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
• You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.
• You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.
• You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.
• The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (6-12 months).
• You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold an appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.

What should you bring For your spi? – Technical Gear list

• UIAA/CE approved Climbing Helmet
• UIAA/CE approved Climbing Harness with belay loop
• Climbing shoes or approach shoes you can climb in to 5.7
• Standard “lead climbing rack” such as, Stoppers, SLCD’s, Tri-cams, etc.
• Assorted 24” and 48” runners (must have one 48” runner)
• 10 or more non-locking carabineers
• 3 or more “HMS/Pearbiners”
• 5 or more locking carabineers
• 1 Plate/tube-style belay device such as the Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC, etc.
• 1 Assisted braking style belay device such as the Petzl GriGri
• 2 Prussic loops (1m of 5mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
• 2 Cordelettes (5m of 7mm Nylon Accessory Cord)
• One 50-60m “single” rope (9.5-11mm) suitable for leading and top roping
• One static or “semi-static” (gym line) rope 10-11mm, 30m+, for setting up anchors and fixed lines
• All gear will be inspected on the first morning of the course and is expected to be in good condition. Mark all of your gear!

What Terrain can you guide with an SPI?

The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. Single Pitch Instructors supervise and teach climbing at any single pitch cliff, working at the base or from the top. They can work at sites where the anchors are accessed by non technical terrain and also by leading. For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which:

• Is climbed without intermediate belays
• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating

Upon successful completion of the AMGA SPI Course, candidates are eligible to take the AMGA SPI Exam. To gain the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Certification you must complete the two day Single Pitch Instructor Assessment.